Just wanted to send out a message saying that I cannot describe how much I have been missing all of my wonderful family and friends during this holiday season. I have been sweating in the hot Christmas sun down here- and learning about new traditions- some that i would repeat in the future- getting to spend the day with a very latino 90 person family reunion in the campo, and others i would not- being food poisoned on christmas eve...
for now I am healthy again, political things are calm, and i am waiting for my boyfriends plane to get in! things are looking up!
Once again- Happy Holidays to Everyone.. Ill write more soon! chau
PS: notice the new address. i was informed by the post lady that i was one of the very few that gets mail in san jose- she knows me and where i live... so no need for the actual address- makes it easier on all of us!
Wednesday, December 26, 2007
Bolivian update- no i have not been in hiding- everything is okay!
Tuesday, December 18, 2007
I arrived back in my site San José de Chiquitos last Wednesday night, despite the long, hot ride on the crowded train I was happy to be back. Bolivia continues to be in a very uneasy political state. The morning I left Santa Cruz my friend was warned twice, by different cab drivers to get out of town- that something was going to happen, and soon. We heard rumors that the President, Evo Morales had sent 300 militarized troops to the Santa Cruz city region.
Here is a short breakdown of last week’s key events:
Saturday December 8: The Constitutional Assembly secretly moves their location to Oruro City- in the Altiplano region- where Evo is highly supported by the Indigenous campesinos
Sunday December 9: In the middle of the night a portion of the Constitutional Assembly pass the new constitution, which gives more power to Evo (the right to run for 2 consecutive terms of 5 years each) , more state control of the economy, more nationalization of services and products, as well as more power for the indigenous populations. Some of these things could be in principal good, but it seems that what Evo truly wants is more of a dictatorship.
Monday- Wednesday: I was in Santa Cruz and things were surprisingly calm. In a country that reacts to everything from the price of bread with civil blockades and strikes, we were forced to question, what was going on? A large hunger strike in the central plaza of Santa Cruz City continues throughout the week.
Thursday December 13: “Ya tenemos Autonomia” (“ We already are Autonomous) Propaganda starts running on the TV and radio stations in Santa Cruz Region.
Saturday December 14: Official announcement of Autonomy in Santa Cruz, Tarija. Beni and Pando Regions. The headlines of the news “Un Pais; Dos Fiestas” (One Country; Two Parties”. And it was true, party they did. I could barely fall asleep because of the happy, drunken screams of my neighbors “Autonomiaaa”
To me there continues to be somewhat of an eerie type feeling, the country is deeply divided- but for the time being all sides are in denial and ignoring the other sides. It is a division between the truly indigenous people, whose ancestors lived here as long as 10,000 years and the people who have mixed European Bolivian heritage. It is a division between political parties. It is a division between those with money and those without. It is a division between regions of a single small country that over time has lost over half of its territory to its neighbors; Chile, Peru, Brazil, Argentina, and Paraguay. Peace Corps has told us that things should continue to be calm into the New Year. I can’t help but wonder what will 2008 bring for Bolivia?
I arrived back in my site San José de Chiquitos last Wednesday night, despite the long, hot ride on the crowded train I was happy to be back. Bolivia continues to be in a very uneasy political state. The morning I left Santa Cruz my friend was warned twice, by different cab drivers to get out of town- that something was going to happen, and soon. We heard rumors that the President, Evo Morales had sent 300 militarized troops to the Santa Cruz city region.
Here is a short breakdown of last week’s key events:
Saturday December 8: The Constitutional Assembly secretly moves their location to Oruro City- in the Altiplano region- where Evo is highly supported by the Indigenous campesinos
Sunday December 9: In the middle of the night a portion of the Constitutional Assembly pass the new constitution, which gives more power to Evo (the right to run for 2 consecutive terms of 5 years each) , more state control of the economy, more nationalization of services and products, as well as more power for the indigenous populations. Some of these things could be in principal good, but it seems that what Evo truly wants is more of a dictatorship.
Monday- Wednesday: I was in Santa Cruz and things were surprisingly calm. In a country that reacts to everything from the price of bread with civil blockades and strikes, we were forced to question, what was going on? A large hunger strike in the central plaza of Santa Cruz City continues throughout the week.
Thursday December 13: “Ya tenemos Autonomia” (“ We already are Autonomous) Propaganda starts running on the TV and radio stations in Santa Cruz Region.
Saturday December 14: Official announcement of Autonomy in Santa Cruz, Tarija. Beni and Pando Regions. The headlines of the news “Un Pais; Dos Fiestas” (One Country; Two Parties”. And it was true, party they did. I could barely fall asleep because of the happy, drunken screams of my neighbors “Autonomiaaa”
To me there continues to be somewhat of an eerie type feeling, the country is deeply divided- but for the time being all sides are in denial and ignoring the other sides. It is a division between the truly indigenous people, whose ancestors lived here as long as 10,000 years and the people who have mixed European Bolivian heritage. It is a division between political parties. It is a division between those with money and those without. It is a division between regions of a single small country that over time has lost over half of its territory to its neighbors; Chile, Peru, Brazil, Argentina, and Paraguay. Peace Corps has told us that things should continue to be calm into the New Year. I can’t help but wonder what will 2008 bring for Bolivia?
Wednesday, December 5, 2007
Situation in Bolivia
"The situation in Bolivia continues to be tense...” These are the headings of the emails I have been receiving almost daily from Peace Corps. The Bolivian president Evo Morales, the countries first indigenous president, has declared that "Dead or alive, I will have a new constitution by December 14th". The new Constitution will give him increasingly more power, which is exactly what the Media Luna (Santa Cruz and other allied regions) do not want. There is a sharp divide between the country, which is most simply broken down to a fight between the indigenous people (the majority of which live in the La Paz, Cochabamba regions) and the other European decent Bolivians who live in the more southern regions, such as Santa Cruz. The extreme racism between the Camba (Santa Cruz) and the Collas ( La Paz) is seen in all aspects of life.
Politically, things are pretty confusing in Bolivia. It is hard to tell which demonstrations, civil strikes (paros), road blockades are serious and which are not... they simply happen all the time, for reasons ranging from petty arguments, to others which could turn in to country wide fighting.
I have been in Cochabamaba since last Sunday (11/25). I am here along with the rest of my B-45 group for In-service training, and a project design workshop. My counterpart, Dona Deisy bailed out of coming with me for fear of the political situation at the last moment. At the time, I wasn't sure if she decided not to come just because she didn’t want to, or was seriously nervous. As the week has gone on, we have had some disruptions. Last week there were riots in Sucre, where the Constitutional Assembly have been meeting. 4 people were killed in the midst of the protests and political unrest. I have heard from other volunteers that were there, that they watched the city go up in flames, while listening to reports that the prisoners from the jail had been released and were armed on the streets. Peace Corps put us all on an emergency action plan, in which all volunteers had to check in and confirm their safety and whereabouts.
In Cochabamba, we also had a Paro (civil strike) one day last week. There was no transportation, and all stores were closed. It was not a dangerous day, and we were able to have our meetings in a nice hotel in downtown Coch. It was actually really peaceful walking through the streets with no cars. The roads were all blocked off by random branches, tires and trashcans, making us wonder if these people kept spare paro blockading equipment in their houses or garages. It was truly an amazing site seeing business people and Chollitas all walking over the bridges in the silent Cochabamba streets.
This week has been normal so far. We have been warned of marches by Cocaleros- coca leaf farmers tomorrow. Peace Corps, of course is very on top of monitoring the situation... but we truly do not know what could happen in the next few weeks. For now, we are hoping for the best, meaning that the situation passes and we are able to stay in country working as normal...
Politically, things are pretty confusing in Bolivia. It is hard to tell which demonstrations, civil strikes (paros), road blockades are serious and which are not... they simply happen all the time, for reasons ranging from petty arguments, to others which could turn in to country wide fighting.
I have been in Cochabamaba since last Sunday (11/25). I am here along with the rest of my B-45 group for In-service training, and a project design workshop. My counterpart, Dona Deisy bailed out of coming with me for fear of the political situation at the last moment. At the time, I wasn't sure if she decided not to come just because she didn’t want to, or was seriously nervous. As the week has gone on, we have had some disruptions. Last week there were riots in Sucre, where the Constitutional Assembly have been meeting. 4 people were killed in the midst of the protests and political unrest. I have heard from other volunteers that were there, that they watched the city go up in flames, while listening to reports that the prisoners from the jail had been released and were armed on the streets. Peace Corps put us all on an emergency action plan, in which all volunteers had to check in and confirm their safety and whereabouts.
In Cochabamba, we also had a Paro (civil strike) one day last week. There was no transportation, and all stores were closed. It was not a dangerous day, and we were able to have our meetings in a nice hotel in downtown Coch. It was actually really peaceful walking through the streets with no cars. The roads were all blocked off by random branches, tires and trashcans, making us wonder if these people kept spare paro blockading equipment in their houses or garages. It was truly an amazing site seeing business people and Chollitas all walking over the bridges in the silent Cochabamba streets.
This week has been normal so far. We have been warned of marches by Cocaleros- coca leaf farmers tomorrow. Peace Corps, of course is very on top of monitoring the situation... but we truly do not know what could happen in the next few weeks. For now, we are hoping for the best, meaning that the situation passes and we are able to stay in country working as normal...
Giving Thanks
So it was my first Thanksgiving away from home, which was really hard but I made the best of it. I woke up thinking about all of the things that I would normally be doing. I love thanksgiving... I normally wake up early to watch parades from all over the country and eat delicious poppy seed cake made by Papa. That is usually followed by an afternoon and evening filled with family, turkey, vegetables, pies and love. It was hard not to be sad and think about all the people that I would rather be with, and places that I might rather be than in San Jose de Chiquitos. But there I was. I decided to make my Thanksgiving a day in which I really thought about the meaning of the holiday.
I made pumpkin pies to share one of our American traditions with some of my friends in my community. To do this I went to one of my local tiendas, and bought a chunk of zapallo- a gigantic pumpkin-like squash. You just tell them how much you want and they whack off a chunk. I went home with 2 kilos of zapallo and got started. The pie making went well. Everyone in my house thought that I was crazy for making a desert from a squash, let alone not understanding what a pie was. They pretty much thought that it was going to be horrible, whatever it was. Since pie does not exist in Bolivia, I ended up using an old frying pan with out a handle and a cake pan for my pie plates. They turned out beautifully!! I shared the pies with my host family, Dona Deisy and Prof. Negro, the 2 women who work in our house Hilda and Anita, and my best exercise students and Dona Rosita. Everyone loved the pie, asked for seconds and was truly amazed that is was zapallo! A success.
I also had a very special lunch with Dona Rosita and my 2 best students. Dona Rosita and I worked all morning making corn tortilla shredded chicken enchiladas from scratch (one of her specialties from when she lived in Mexico!) We shared the delicious meal, toasted and gave thanks for each other’s friendship. It turned about to be a day in which I celebrated friends, food, and most of all thought about what I am most grateful for - my friends and family all over the world.
I made pumpkin pies to share one of our American traditions with some of my friends in my community. To do this I went to one of my local tiendas, and bought a chunk of zapallo- a gigantic pumpkin-like squash. You just tell them how much you want and they whack off a chunk. I went home with 2 kilos of zapallo and got started. The pie making went well. Everyone in my house thought that I was crazy for making a desert from a squash, let alone not understanding what a pie was. They pretty much thought that it was going to be horrible, whatever it was. Since pie does not exist in Bolivia, I ended up using an old frying pan with out a handle and a cake pan for my pie plates. They turned out beautifully!! I shared the pies with my host family, Dona Deisy and Prof. Negro, the 2 women who work in our house Hilda and Anita, and my best exercise students and Dona Rosita. Everyone loved the pie, asked for seconds and was truly amazed that is was zapallo! A success.
I also had a very special lunch with Dona Rosita and my 2 best students. Dona Rosita and I worked all morning making corn tortilla shredded chicken enchiladas from scratch (one of her specialties from when she lived in Mexico!) We shared the delicious meal, toasted and gave thanks for each other’s friendship. It turned about to be a day in which I celebrated friends, food, and most of all thought about what I am most grateful for - my friends and family all over the world.
Monday, November 12, 2007
RAIN!
the view from my room... its raining and san jose is changing from desert to jungle!
the bottle (preferably a glass beer bottle) is placed on its top in the middle of the patio, this supposedly stops the rain...... suprisingly the rain did stop, but i guess it always does at some point right?
the bottle (preferably a glass beer bottle) is placed on its top in the middle of the patio, this supposedly stops the rain...... suprisingly the rain did stop, but i guess it always does at some point right?
Saturday, November 3, 2007
the fan
October 27, 2007
Its Saturday morning and I’ve woken up late because of a rather sleepless night due to a run in with a mean fan (as in cooling fan, not one of my personal fans). I had a calm (but later than normal) Saturday night, spending time with a family while they held a vigil for their patron saint. Basically, I spent my night praying the rosary in Spanish and wound up practically slicing the end of my finger off. I am not really sure how it happened but I do know that I thought I was simply moving my fan over, and the next thing I knew I felt a sharp sting in my finger and heard a zzzing… I was freaking out because
1) There was blood everywhere
2) I was all alone, in the middle of the night
3)I didn’t want to lose my finger
4) I was in Bolivia
5)I was in Bolivia
Thank goodness for modernity, I was able to call Mama, my lifelong medical savior. She reassured me that I would not lose my finger after all but that I should call Peace Corps, and/or go to the local hospital. I began calling taxi’s with the help of Patty (Senora Deisy’s daughter) but every single one had turned off their phones, yes we do have ever single one’s phone number. Obviously noone wants to work at midnight on Saturday night. Eventually I was picked up by a friend of Patty’s and taken to Hospital #1. There we found a nurse, who wanted to stitch me up, but didn’t seem quite so sure she knew how…The doctor was on-call… but had also turned off both of his phone lines…I was starting to be very happy that it was only my finger at stake. We drove off to find hospital #2. Once again, no doctor, no number to call, nothing… I settled for some antibiotic ointment and a small finger cast. Hopefully my finger will heal itself.
This morning I woke up hot and wondering what had become of my old friend the fan… It turns out that they are re-working the town’s electricity, and we wont have power all day. So for now, I am here dreaming of the same thing that was giving me nightmares last night.
Also just wanted to clarify that since my last post talked about how I now consider this my home, it is my temporary home. Although I am learning a lot from being here, I will most likely be gone the day my service is over.
Take away lessons:
Don’t pray the rosary too late at night (?)
Try to keep sickness and injuries to the normal business hours… wait what are those again?
Its Saturday morning and I’ve woken up late because of a rather sleepless night due to a run in with a mean fan (as in cooling fan, not one of my personal fans). I had a calm (but later than normal) Saturday night, spending time with a family while they held a vigil for their patron saint. Basically, I spent my night praying the rosary in Spanish and wound up practically slicing the end of my finger off. I am not really sure how it happened but I do know that I thought I was simply moving my fan over, and the next thing I knew I felt a sharp sting in my finger and heard a zzzing… I was freaking out because
1) There was blood everywhere
2) I was all alone, in the middle of the night
3)I didn’t want to lose my finger
4) I was in Bolivia
5)I was in Bolivia
Thank goodness for modernity, I was able to call Mama, my lifelong medical savior. She reassured me that I would not lose my finger after all but that I should call Peace Corps, and/or go to the local hospital. I began calling taxi’s with the help of Patty (Senora Deisy’s daughter) but every single one had turned off their phones, yes we do have ever single one’s phone number. Obviously noone wants to work at midnight on Saturday night. Eventually I was picked up by a friend of Patty’s and taken to Hospital #1. There we found a nurse, who wanted to stitch me up, but didn’t seem quite so sure she knew how…The doctor was on-call… but had also turned off both of his phone lines…I was starting to be very happy that it was only my finger at stake. We drove off to find hospital #2. Once again, no doctor, no number to call, nothing… I settled for some antibiotic ointment and a small finger cast. Hopefully my finger will heal itself.
This morning I woke up hot and wondering what had become of my old friend the fan… It turns out that they are re-working the town’s electricity, and we wont have power all day. So for now, I am here dreaming of the same thing that was giving me nightmares last night.
Also just wanted to clarify that since my last post talked about how I now consider this my home, it is my temporary home. Although I am learning a lot from being here, I will most likely be gone the day my service is over.
Take away lessons:
Don’t pray the rosary too late at night (?)
Try to keep sickness and injuries to the normal business hours… wait what are those again?
Saturday, October 27, 2007
home?
I just returned from my October visit to “the big city” (Santa Cruz). I had a wonderful time seeing friends from my B-45 group. I especially enjoyed spending time with my favorite Peace Corps couple Anna and Tom. We found new hostel, which changed our whole idea of the city. We spent most of our days hanging out by a beautiful little pool and garden… a nice retreat from the busy city streets filled with loud micros and people peddling everything from Euros, to phone cards, to shaved ice. We had a couple of lovely lunches and dinners at our favorite spots, La Casona (a German restaurant) and Tomate (a pizzeria). I left feeling healthy (thanks to a couple of medical visits) and up-to-date (thanks to internet at Alexander’s café). I also returned with a new haircut, groceries unavailable to me in San Jose, Newsweek, and a few newly downloaded Itunes.
The last couple days in the city I began to feel a little on edge, even though I was having a good time. I couldn’t exactly put my finger on it until I pulled into the crazy train station in San Jose. This time, I began to smile when I saw the small wood fired grills with chicken and meat on sticks, and smiled even more so when I heard the whiney voices of women and children calling “limonaadaaaaaa” or “te manzanilaaaaaaaaa”. I felt a strange sense of relief and realized that I was home.
Other trips, when I pulled back into the station it was more of a feeling of being back in my site versus another place in Bolivia. This is the first time I felt like this is really where I live. I left the train station; breathing the air that now smells less of smoke and more of rain… it is the beginning of a new season. I am here and ready to work… lets see how things go.
The last couple days in the city I began to feel a little on edge, even though I was having a good time. I couldn’t exactly put my finger on it until I pulled into the crazy train station in San Jose. This time, I began to smile when I saw the small wood fired grills with chicken and meat on sticks, and smiled even more so when I heard the whiney voices of women and children calling “limonaadaaaaaa” or “te manzanilaaaaaaaaa”. I felt a strange sense of relief and realized that I was home.
Other trips, when I pulled back into the station it was more of a feeling of being back in my site versus another place in Bolivia. This is the first time I felt like this is really where I live. I left the train station; breathing the air that now smells less of smoke and more of rain… it is the beginning of a new season. I am here and ready to work… lets see how things go.
Monday, October 22, 2007
Friends... new and old
Milking a cow
Tim, Josh, Anna, Abe, Chris
Representing Fordham and Jesuit traditions in Santiago, with friend from college Josh Lincoln
Sunday, October 21, 2007
Words from a guest journalist- Mama!
A couple weeks ago, I was lucky enough to have my mama come for a visit. I asked to write about her time here, because being here for almost 6 months, I have begun to get used to all things Bolivia (which in itself is a little scary!) Here is her Bolivian Journal:
Impressions From Five Days in Bolivia with Anna
A year ago, I couldn’t have imagined that I would be spending 5 days in Bolivia with Anna. She was interviewing for the Peace Corp with no idea of whether she would be accepted and if so whether she would accept the challenge. Well, things change and I found myself on a plane from Santiago, Chile to La Paz, Bolivia. I was in Santiago for a week, where I am fortunate to have a project working with colleagues at the Institute of Nutrition and Food Technology at the University of Chile. Since I was already in the southern hemisphere, it only made sense to go the rest of the distance to be with my daughter.
Traveling to San Jose de Chiquitos is an adventure in itself. I flew from Santiago to La Paz, intending to connect immediately on to Bolivia’s largest airport, Viru Viru International in Santa Cruz. I found that in Bolivia, plans should be considered only as rough outlines of what will happen next. Instead, I spent 7 hours at 13,313 feet elevation in the La Paz airport. My first inclination was to take a taxi into the city and explore the colonial Plaza San Francisco and the Witch’s Market, until I realized that my lips were cyanotic (blue) at rest and even walking slowly up several stairs caused respiratory distress. Going from sea level to the highest airport in the world is a challenge. So instead of sight-seeing, I found a reclining chair in a VIP lounge, answered email, read and rested, and drank maté hoping that I would not succumb to “sorocho”, altitude sickness. After all, I was already wasting 7 hours of my precious time with Anna and I didn’t want to be sick for even one day. Luckily, I escaped with only a mild headache and some difficulty eating that evening.
Meanwhile, Anna was waiting for me in Santa Cruz, after taking the overnight train from San Jose de Chiquitos. My first impression of Santa Cruz from the plane was a dramatic view of brush fires and smoke filled air. It did not improve as I sped down Bolivia’s version of Eight-Mile Road in a broken down taxi. From this vantage point, the city looked disorganized and dangerous. Anna and I met at our $35 hotel and walked to a restaurant that had fabulous food (I couldn’t eat) and VERY slow service. Nonetheless, the atmosphere of the pleasant courtyard filled with people having fun, was a great backdrop for the mother-daughter reunion. In the morning, we went to Alexander’s, a Peace Corps volunteer (PCV) hangout with good food and free Wi-Fi where Anna is sure to meet up with a fellow PCV if she stays there long enough; all the more surprising because the Santa Cruz region is large and volunteers can live as far as 15 hours away. Santa Cruz, with 1.5 million inhabitants, is bustling and modern in many ways. I heard many times during my short stay that “You can find anything in Santa Cruz”. And, in fact, Anna and I were very successful shopping for food, cooking supplies and a mountain bike.
One hour before our 11 am train to San Jose de Chiquitos, we joined a diverse array of Bolivianos in the crowded and noisy train station. We were amused by a very determined cleaning lady who kept us moving while she mopped the floor repeatedly in the places where we chose to sit. Just as we thought it was time to board the train, Anna received a text message from another PCV who reported that she had heard our train was leaving several hours late. A teacher from the Marist Brother’s School in San Jose de Chiquitos had called to say he would be home later than planned. Communication – it’s changing the world! Anyway, this meant that Anna and I could return to our hotel and relax by the pool for several hours before taking another frenetic taxi ride back to the train station.
The train left at 3:30 and traveled through countryside that made me think of pictures I’ve seen of African savannahs. I would not have been surprised to see a giraffe striding across the plains. Our arrival by night at the train station at San Jose de Chiquitos was dramatic. We were met by the smell and site of the fires from many small grills, grilling meat for sale on the platform. The exotic look and dress of a diverse array of people was even more impressive in the dark. As we got of the train, Anna and I saw Melchor, the Marist Brother, who beckoned us to share his taxi. Through the broken windshield of the taxi, I took in the small adobe houses and the unpaved streets of my daughter’s new home. We were warmly greeted by Daisy and Negro, the proprietors of the home where Anna has 2 rooms which open on to a spacious garden courtyard across from their living room. I drifted off to sleep dreaming about Anna’s life in this exotic place so different from what we call “home”.
In the morning the family had gone to their cattle ranch for the day and Anna and I had the home to ourselves. We took our time over a breakfast of poached eggs and then headed out to hike up the canyon just outside of town. All along the way, people greeted Anna: “Hola Ani” “Y Josi?”, “Hi Anna” – “Where’s Josi?” I appreciated the familiarity of the greeting which positioned Anna as a colleague of Josi, another PCV.
At the outskirts of town we passed the well-maintained campus of an orphanage, which cares for children from infancy to adolescence. I have since learned that 9,200 Bolivian children live in homes for abandoned, orphaned and disabled children and an additional 3,700 live on the streets in the cities of La Paz, El Alto, Santa Cruz, Cochabamba, Tarija and Sucre. Of Bolivian’s 8.3 million inhabitants, half are children and 2.5 million children live in poverty. Bolivia is the poorest country in our hemisphere with the exception of Haiti.
The hike passes the original town-site of Santa Cruz which was established there in 1561 before moving to its current location in 1592. Our goal was to reach the top of a canyon with an amazing view of the valley. After turning back because of the heat the first morning, the next day I was rewarded by a view that brought back memories of Arizona vistas. I imagine things will look different after a few months of rain.
The town of San Jose de Chiquitos is reminiscent of the American west, several hundred years ago. As I walked the dusty streets of the colonial square I imagined myself in Taos, long before New Mexico joined the United States. True there are some cars and “motos” in San Jose, but most people are on foot or in donkey carts. There is a treasure of a church completed in 1698 by the Jesuits at the end of their short tenure in the region. It is built of wood and stone and is decorated with frescoes combining baroque and indigenous art. Gold adorns the altar and carved wood pillars support the massive structure. The reconstruction of the church continues but is quite far along. There is a tranquil garden which was full of spring blossoms. The remainder of the square includes several carry-out chicken restaurants and the town-hall, where Anna spends some of her work days.
I felt like a visiting dignitary during my stay. Doña Daisy took me on a tour of the hospital and city government including a meeting with the mayor and a discussion of Anna’s project. We were invited to Doña Daisy’s daughter’s home for coffee. I enjoyed meeting Patti and her French husband, Pierre and their 3-year-old son, Tomas, and learning about their life in small town Bolivia. Pierre has lived in Europe, Africa, the US (Bay City and Saginaw) and Patti has lived in Africa and the Dominican Republic. We discussed the challenge of starting a restaurant in a small town with the promise of tourism, working in international business and raising a son in a remote place in the developing world. One thing, that we all agreed on is that the world is small (“Le monde est petit.”) I look forward to meeting Pierre’s sister who lives in Fenton, Michigan.
I also was able to spend two pleasurable evenings at Doña Rosita’s pizzeria, a cozy place which comes with Rosita’s friendship. Doña Rosita reminded me of Strega Nona, a character from the Tomie dePaola story who has an enchanted pot that produces pasta. I think that Rosita must have been the inspiration for Strega Nona. Our evenings at the pizzeria were spent talking to Rosita, Josie (the other PCV), several teachers and a man who runs one of the local TV stations. I look forward to my next visit for the food and the friendship. I hope that Anna is able to spend many evenings with Doña Rosita.
Leaving Bolivia proved as difficult as getting there. Anna and I left San Jose de Chiquitos on the train at 1 am, to arrive in Santa Cruz in the morning. I was amused by the somewhat Fellini-esque scene at the station including Mennonites, men in overalls and women in gingham dresses; native Bolivian women carrying large babies in blankets on their backs; a colorful array of wedding cake skirts and shawls; and of course the ever-present adolescent Bolivian soldiers in camouflage attire with black boots and guns. The train left on schedule and lulled by the rhythmic noise and movement, we slept.
The morning of my departure, I arrived at the airport, checked in for my flight and bought a beautiful book about the Chiquitos. I was somewhat suspicious because there was no plane at the gate and even more so when I saw the crew leaving with smiles on their faces. I was surprised and secretly happy when my flight was cancelled and headed back into town to spend 4 more precious hours with Anna before her train left. We relaxed together by the pool of our hotel and began thinking about a future visit. I left Bolivia with a profound sense of admiration for my daughter who is brave and adventurous. I appreciate how difficult life is in Bolivia and how challenging her work will be. I also understand that she truly wants to help people and make a difference in the world. That is not always as easy as it sounds. It is impossible to express the magnitude of support Anna has from her family including Peter, Connor and I and her grandparents, aunts, uncles and cousins.
Post script: Anna, Bolivia is fortunate to have you for 27 months. And, we look forward to what you will bring home to us from your experience.
Impressions From Five Days in Bolivia with Anna
A year ago, I couldn’t have imagined that I would be spending 5 days in Bolivia with Anna. She was interviewing for the Peace Corp with no idea of whether she would be accepted and if so whether she would accept the challenge. Well, things change and I found myself on a plane from Santiago, Chile to La Paz, Bolivia. I was in Santiago for a week, where I am fortunate to have a project working with colleagues at the Institute of Nutrition and Food Technology at the University of Chile. Since I was already in the southern hemisphere, it only made sense to go the rest of the distance to be with my daughter.
Traveling to San Jose de Chiquitos is an adventure in itself. I flew from Santiago to La Paz, intending to connect immediately on to Bolivia’s largest airport, Viru Viru International in Santa Cruz. I found that in Bolivia, plans should be considered only as rough outlines of what will happen next. Instead, I spent 7 hours at 13,313 feet elevation in the La Paz airport. My first inclination was to take a taxi into the city and explore the colonial Plaza San Francisco and the Witch’s Market, until I realized that my lips were cyanotic (blue) at rest and even walking slowly up several stairs caused respiratory distress. Going from sea level to the highest airport in the world is a challenge. So instead of sight-seeing, I found a reclining chair in a VIP lounge, answered email, read and rested, and drank maté hoping that I would not succumb to “sorocho”, altitude sickness. After all, I was already wasting 7 hours of my precious time with Anna and I didn’t want to be sick for even one day. Luckily, I escaped with only a mild headache and some difficulty eating that evening.
Meanwhile, Anna was waiting for me in Santa Cruz, after taking the overnight train from San Jose de Chiquitos. My first impression of Santa Cruz from the plane was a dramatic view of brush fires and smoke filled air. It did not improve as I sped down Bolivia’s version of Eight-Mile Road in a broken down taxi. From this vantage point, the city looked disorganized and dangerous. Anna and I met at our $35 hotel and walked to a restaurant that had fabulous food (I couldn’t eat) and VERY slow service. Nonetheless, the atmosphere of the pleasant courtyard filled with people having fun, was a great backdrop for the mother-daughter reunion. In the morning, we went to Alexander’s, a Peace Corps volunteer (PCV) hangout with good food and free Wi-Fi where Anna is sure to meet up with a fellow PCV if she stays there long enough; all the more surprising because the Santa Cruz region is large and volunteers can live as far as 15 hours away. Santa Cruz, with 1.5 million inhabitants, is bustling and modern in many ways. I heard many times during my short stay that “You can find anything in Santa Cruz”. And, in fact, Anna and I were very successful shopping for food, cooking supplies and a mountain bike.
One hour before our 11 am train to San Jose de Chiquitos, we joined a diverse array of Bolivianos in the crowded and noisy train station. We were amused by a very determined cleaning lady who kept us moving while she mopped the floor repeatedly in the places where we chose to sit. Just as we thought it was time to board the train, Anna received a text message from another PCV who reported that she had heard our train was leaving several hours late. A teacher from the Marist Brother’s School in San Jose de Chiquitos had called to say he would be home later than planned. Communication – it’s changing the world! Anyway, this meant that Anna and I could return to our hotel and relax by the pool for several hours before taking another frenetic taxi ride back to the train station.
The train left at 3:30 and traveled through countryside that made me think of pictures I’ve seen of African savannahs. I would not have been surprised to see a giraffe striding across the plains. Our arrival by night at the train station at San Jose de Chiquitos was dramatic. We were met by the smell and site of the fires from many small grills, grilling meat for sale on the platform. The exotic look and dress of a diverse array of people was even more impressive in the dark. As we got of the train, Anna and I saw Melchor, the Marist Brother, who beckoned us to share his taxi. Through the broken windshield of the taxi, I took in the small adobe houses and the unpaved streets of my daughter’s new home. We were warmly greeted by Daisy and Negro, the proprietors of the home where Anna has 2 rooms which open on to a spacious garden courtyard across from their living room. I drifted off to sleep dreaming about Anna’s life in this exotic place so different from what we call “home”.
In the morning the family had gone to their cattle ranch for the day and Anna and I had the home to ourselves. We took our time over a breakfast of poached eggs and then headed out to hike up the canyon just outside of town. All along the way, people greeted Anna: “Hola Ani” “Y Josi?”, “Hi Anna” – “Where’s Josi?” I appreciated the familiarity of the greeting which positioned Anna as a colleague of Josi, another PCV.
At the outskirts of town we passed the well-maintained campus of an orphanage, which cares for children from infancy to adolescence. I have since learned that 9,200 Bolivian children live in homes for abandoned, orphaned and disabled children and an additional 3,700 live on the streets in the cities of La Paz, El Alto, Santa Cruz, Cochabamba, Tarija and Sucre. Of Bolivian’s 8.3 million inhabitants, half are children and 2.5 million children live in poverty. Bolivia is the poorest country in our hemisphere with the exception of Haiti.
The hike passes the original town-site of Santa Cruz which was established there in 1561 before moving to its current location in 1592. Our goal was to reach the top of a canyon with an amazing view of the valley. After turning back because of the heat the first morning, the next day I was rewarded by a view that brought back memories of Arizona vistas. I imagine things will look different after a few months of rain.
The town of San Jose de Chiquitos is reminiscent of the American west, several hundred years ago. As I walked the dusty streets of the colonial square I imagined myself in Taos, long before New Mexico joined the United States. True there are some cars and “motos” in San Jose, but most people are on foot or in donkey carts. There is a treasure of a church completed in 1698 by the Jesuits at the end of their short tenure in the region. It is built of wood and stone and is decorated with frescoes combining baroque and indigenous art. Gold adorns the altar and carved wood pillars support the massive structure. The reconstruction of the church continues but is quite far along. There is a tranquil garden which was full of spring blossoms. The remainder of the square includes several carry-out chicken restaurants and the town-hall, where Anna spends some of her work days.
I felt like a visiting dignitary during my stay. Doña Daisy took me on a tour of the hospital and city government including a meeting with the mayor and a discussion of Anna’s project. We were invited to Doña Daisy’s daughter’s home for coffee. I enjoyed meeting Patti and her French husband, Pierre and their 3-year-old son, Tomas, and learning about their life in small town Bolivia. Pierre has lived in Europe, Africa, the US (Bay City and Saginaw) and Patti has lived in Africa and the Dominican Republic. We discussed the challenge of starting a restaurant in a small town with the promise of tourism, working in international business and raising a son in a remote place in the developing world. One thing, that we all agreed on is that the world is small (“Le monde est petit.”) I look forward to meeting Pierre’s sister who lives in Fenton, Michigan.
I also was able to spend two pleasurable evenings at Doña Rosita’s pizzeria, a cozy place which comes with Rosita’s friendship. Doña Rosita reminded me of Strega Nona, a character from the Tomie dePaola story who has an enchanted pot that produces pasta. I think that Rosita must have been the inspiration for Strega Nona. Our evenings at the pizzeria were spent talking to Rosita, Josie (the other PCV), several teachers and a man who runs one of the local TV stations. I look forward to my next visit for the food and the friendship. I hope that Anna is able to spend many evenings with Doña Rosita.
Leaving Bolivia proved as difficult as getting there. Anna and I left San Jose de Chiquitos on the train at 1 am, to arrive in Santa Cruz in the morning. I was amused by the somewhat Fellini-esque scene at the station including Mennonites, men in overalls and women in gingham dresses; native Bolivian women carrying large babies in blankets on their backs; a colorful array of wedding cake skirts and shawls; and of course the ever-present adolescent Bolivian soldiers in camouflage attire with black boots and guns. The train left on schedule and lulled by the rhythmic noise and movement, we slept.
The morning of my departure, I arrived at the airport, checked in for my flight and bought a beautiful book about the Chiquitos. I was somewhat suspicious because there was no plane at the gate and even more so when I saw the crew leaving with smiles on their faces. I was surprised and secretly happy when my flight was cancelled and headed back into town to spend 4 more precious hours with Anna before her train left. We relaxed together by the pool of our hotel and began thinking about a future visit. I left Bolivia with a profound sense of admiration for my daughter who is brave and adventurous. I appreciate how difficult life is in Bolivia and how challenging her work will be. I also understand that she truly wants to help people and make a difference in the world. That is not always as easy as it sounds. It is impossible to express the magnitude of support Anna has from her family including Peter, Connor and I and her grandparents, aunts, uncles and cousins.
Post script: Anna, Bolivia is fortunate to have you for 27 months. And, we look forward to what you will bring home to us from your experience.
Thursday, October 4, 2007
¨Nitty Gritty¨
plastic filled streets
notice the ¨trash man¨ (cart servicio de limpieza) and my local whole foods
gray water fills the streets
Last week, I had a wonderful visit with Mama, who was working in Chile, and decided to come by Bolivia for a quick trip on her way home to the states. It was so nice to see her, and I had such a great time showing her around San Jose and introducing her to the new people and places of my San Jose life. On her visit, she told me that I have been a little optimistic in my blog writing, and need to write an entry about the “nitty gritty”. I acknowledge the fact that I am an optimistic person, and maybe I have portrayed more of the good aspects of my new community than the bad, but I also do not want all of you to think that I am vacationing in Bolivia on a Peace Corps salary for the fun on it… because for the most part it is not that fun. It is incredibly hard to be away from all my friends, family and boyfriend, not even mentioning all of the modern conveniences and things that we take for granted in the first world. Some of the things that I miss the most are strange; those great bean veggie burgers, my fun gym Crunch and all of the crazy classes I used to take (hot yoga, chisel, rock bottom…), kashi cereal, tea at my favorite café (South 4th!), dancing and coloring with my little best friend Charlotte, eating brunch in Williamsburg with my girlfriends, spending time on the beach with Chris, being able to call people from my cell phone,
Here is some of the nitty gritty:
Basic Sanitation:
There is no such thing as citywide trash pick up. People either burn their trash, or throw it a place that seems inconspicuous to them. There are fields filled with thousands of plastic bags. They get attached to the plants, trees, rocks and fences, and stay there accumulating, no one tries to clean them up, more likely they throw more bags there when they see that they are already building up in one area.
Many people do not have any plumbing. Many have no form of bathroom whatsoever, not even latrine. They simply use a place in their backyard, usually with a makeshift plastic tent surrounding the area. Riding the train to San Jose, we pass swamps of black water, sewage in front of people’s homes, where their children play. In San Jose, the wastewater from the kitchens, bathrooms and wash areas is fed into ugly canals on the sides of the streets. Sewage is not supposed to go into these areas, but I have yet to find someone to tell me where it does go.
San Jose has a problem with lack of water. It seems that when you need it the most, (right after a long, sweaty run) you will find that nothing comes out of the faucet. The past couple weeks it has been better than usual, there has been constant water until 10 at night, when it has been shutting off.
Health:
People’s staple food is white bread made with lard. This is the typical breakfast and dinner in Bolivia, along with a large filling lunch that usually consists of rice, potatoes, and maybe a little meat or chicken. As a result, the people are very malnourished. Many suffer and/or die from gastro-intestinal illnesses, and diarrhea caused by poor hygiene and bad water. I have jumped into this campaign for plastics recycling because people now are burning all of their plastic products. Most do not realize that this is toxic, and very dangerous to their health; I’m hoping to make a small difference with this fact. There is a mix of traditional and modern medicine. The community does not have very good opinions of the couple of doctors that are stationed here. That, in combination with the lack of knowledge about general health and nutrition makes me nervous about the community’s health practices. People think that you can get sick from the strangest things, such as fans, cold drinks and showering too soon/too long after exercising. I have had people ask me if water can make you gain weight, and if fruits and vegetables are good or bad for them.
All in all, it’s a different world out here, and it’s hard to even know where to begin to try and explain. I am doing my best to learn all I can from the good and bad from this experience.
notice the ¨trash man¨ (cart servicio de limpieza) and my local whole foods
gray water fills the streets
Last week, I had a wonderful visit with Mama, who was working in Chile, and decided to come by Bolivia for a quick trip on her way home to the states. It was so nice to see her, and I had such a great time showing her around San Jose and introducing her to the new people and places of my San Jose life. On her visit, she told me that I have been a little optimistic in my blog writing, and need to write an entry about the “nitty gritty”. I acknowledge the fact that I am an optimistic person, and maybe I have portrayed more of the good aspects of my new community than the bad, but I also do not want all of you to think that I am vacationing in Bolivia on a Peace Corps salary for the fun on it… because for the most part it is not that fun. It is incredibly hard to be away from all my friends, family and boyfriend, not even mentioning all of the modern conveniences and things that we take for granted in the first world. Some of the things that I miss the most are strange; those great bean veggie burgers, my fun gym Crunch and all of the crazy classes I used to take (hot yoga, chisel, rock bottom…), kashi cereal, tea at my favorite café (South 4th!), dancing and coloring with my little best friend Charlotte, eating brunch in Williamsburg with my girlfriends, spending time on the beach with Chris, being able to call people from my cell phone,
Here is some of the nitty gritty:
Basic Sanitation:
There is no such thing as citywide trash pick up. People either burn their trash, or throw it a place that seems inconspicuous to them. There are fields filled with thousands of plastic bags. They get attached to the plants, trees, rocks and fences, and stay there accumulating, no one tries to clean them up, more likely they throw more bags there when they see that they are already building up in one area.
Many people do not have any plumbing. Many have no form of bathroom whatsoever, not even latrine. They simply use a place in their backyard, usually with a makeshift plastic tent surrounding the area. Riding the train to San Jose, we pass swamps of black water, sewage in front of people’s homes, where their children play. In San Jose, the wastewater from the kitchens, bathrooms and wash areas is fed into ugly canals on the sides of the streets. Sewage is not supposed to go into these areas, but I have yet to find someone to tell me where it does go.
San Jose has a problem with lack of water. It seems that when you need it the most, (right after a long, sweaty run) you will find that nothing comes out of the faucet. The past couple weeks it has been better than usual, there has been constant water until 10 at night, when it has been shutting off.
Health:
People’s staple food is white bread made with lard. This is the typical breakfast and dinner in Bolivia, along with a large filling lunch that usually consists of rice, potatoes, and maybe a little meat or chicken. As a result, the people are very malnourished. Many suffer and/or die from gastro-intestinal illnesses, and diarrhea caused by poor hygiene and bad water. I have jumped into this campaign for plastics recycling because people now are burning all of their plastic products. Most do not realize that this is toxic, and very dangerous to their health; I’m hoping to make a small difference with this fact. There is a mix of traditional and modern medicine. The community does not have very good opinions of the couple of doctors that are stationed here. That, in combination with the lack of knowledge about general health and nutrition makes me nervous about the community’s health practices. People think that you can get sick from the strangest things, such as fans, cold drinks and showering too soon/too long after exercising. I have had people ask me if water can make you gain weight, and if fruits and vegetables are good or bad for them.
All in all, it’s a different world out here, and it’s hard to even know where to begin to try and explain. I am doing my best to learn all I can from the good and bad from this experience.
Wednesday, September 12, 2007
New Friends and Anna’s fun and fabulous Yoga for beginners.
Time is passing in San Jose, and I am trying to make some new friends. I have been spending time with a cute older lady by the name of Dona Rosita. Rosita runs an Italian restaurant from her house, and is famous throughout Peace Corps Bolivia for her pizza. Rosita is from San Jose, but her father was Italian, so she learned about food and cooking, in an international way that most Bolivians have not had the chance to experience. She is a wonderful host and makes all of her food by hand. I started spending more time with Rosita while my site mates were gone, and have really enjoyed getting to know this amazing lady. She is a world traveler and picked up gourmet traits from all parts of the globe. She lives alone, simply and enjoys sharing her cooking with all who pass through San Jose. It is amazing that in a town that only knows campo cheese and white carbs, she manages to get her hands on mozzarella and whole wheat flour. Most people here would not even know what those things are! I spent a good deal of time with Rosita this weekend, helping her prune an overgrown bougainvillea on her patio. My work was definitely worth the delicious, food: homemade yogurt, wheat bread, fruit juice, deserts and pizza that she made for me. Moreover though, it is really nice to have someone to talk to in the community that is really interested in learning about me, and where I came from. She was overjoyed to see pictures of my family, friends and boyfriend… She also was excited about my possible projects and more than willing to help.
During one of our many conversations over the weekend, she mentioned that she did yoga when she lived in Mexico. I was very impressed, because that would have been quite a long time ago, before yoga is as popular as it is today. I told her that I too enjoyed doing a little yoga. Before I knew it, the next day I was invited to a tea party of one of her cousins, and there were 10 older women ready to start yoga classes with me. I was a little overwhelmed by their requests, that we start the next day and have class every night, especially because I am not what I would call a yoga expert, myself. But, as I began to think about it, and saw how truly excited and almost desperate these women were to being something they saw as an option to a new and healthy part of their life, I couldn’t turn them down. I did however, compromise on the timing, Anna’s Yoga Inspired Exercises/Healthy Practices for Beginners will start in 2 weeks and will be held once a week. My future students are so eager with anticipation that one claimed “I can’t wait.. I am counting the days” and others asked what they should do to prepare? Drink water? So yes, my students are drinking lots of water, and eating more fruit and vegetables than ever in these 2 weeks in preparation! Wish me luck.
The most exciting news of the week is that Mama will be here this Friday, for a whirlwind tour of San Jose! I guess my yoga student is not the only one counting the days in anticipation!
During one of our many conversations over the weekend, she mentioned that she did yoga when she lived in Mexico. I was very impressed, because that would have been quite a long time ago, before yoga is as popular as it is today. I told her that I too enjoyed doing a little yoga. Before I knew it, the next day I was invited to a tea party of one of her cousins, and there were 10 older women ready to start yoga classes with me. I was a little overwhelmed by their requests, that we start the next day and have class every night, especially because I am not what I would call a yoga expert, myself. But, as I began to think about it, and saw how truly excited and almost desperate these women were to being something they saw as an option to a new and healthy part of their life, I couldn’t turn them down. I did however, compromise on the timing, Anna’s Yoga Inspired Exercises/Healthy Practices for Beginners will start in 2 weeks and will be held once a week. My future students are so eager with anticipation that one claimed “I can’t wait.. I am counting the days” and others asked what they should do to prepare? Drink water? So yes, my students are drinking lots of water, and eating more fruit and vegetables than ever in these 2 weeks in preparation! Wish me luck.
The most exciting news of the week is that Mama will be here this Friday, for a whirlwind tour of San Jose! I guess my yoga student is not the only one counting the days in anticipation!
Saturday, August 25, 2007
parrots, monkeys and cows! oh my!
What is this? anchient artifacts? the work of bugs? a sand castle?
Add ideas in comments!!
10 interesting things about my new home in San Jose de Chiquitos (good and bad)
1. Along with their religion and church the Jesuits brought the violin to San Jose, and even now the kids are taught to play. I often hear beautiful music coming from the least expected building.
2. The countryside is full of parrots, monkeys, anteaters…
3. The siesta : that’s right 12:30- 3, you cannot do anything but eat and sleep.
4. Moto-taxis are one of the main forms of transportation. You can get anywhere in town for about 20 cents. (Peace Corps worldwide used to give out motos, but then realized they were the most dangerous part of volunteer life, so no moto use for me)
5. There are strong negative attitudes/ racism towards the Collas (people from Coch, La Paz, Altiplano…)
6. The number of meetings a small town can have.
7. Getting chicken to go means: chicken in a bag, rice in a bag, french fries in a bag, ketchup in a bag, mustard in a bag… all in a bag!
8. The general lack of teeth
9. There is a 10 year old boy who works in my house (10, is the legal age.)
I have now been in San Jose for more than 3 weeks. Overall things are going well, and I am adjusting to my new life here. I am constantly surprised by the differences and also the similarities between life in Bolivia and the United States. These past few weeks have been part of my integration process. Peace Corps is very different than many other “aid” organizations because we do not come with money. I am here as a human resource, and do not have set funding for a set project. I am here with ideas, motivation, time and skills to help the community. This however means that my project will be very different from others who can come in and build a new building, or start a new school in a couple of weeks. Peace Corps projects take time. This is often confusing for everyone. People in the community are used to having other volunteers come in with money. This past week, due to a rumor, my sitemate Jenny and I had people coming from all over the city, waiting on our porches for hours, just to ask us about a bathroom project in which we give them money to build bathrooms. As much as I would love to do this, the project does not exist! It’s also confusing for me at times, because I have the training and would be able to do so many wonderful things, starting right now, if only I had money. But, that is not the point of grassroots development, and not the point of Peace Corps.
For now, I am in the integration phase, I am doing my community diagnostic and meeting the people. I am becoming comfortable with my surroundings and the people that live her. Everyday more and more people recognize me and greet me with a “buen dia Ani!” on my morning run. My community diagnostic is my personal study of the town, through which I will be able to determine where I can really help, what the town needs, and how I can create a project that will be sustainable in the town even after I leave.
Besides missing all of you at home, I have been enjoying getting to know San Jose. I was lent a bike by one of the Marist brother, and have been exploring new areas everyday. I have a fun sitemate Jenny and it is really nice to have someone in a similar situation to hang out with! We have been spending time hiking and biking in the beautiful countryside, playing with the kids at the Aldea orphanage, exploring all of the different food tiendas, and of course going to meetings. Things that would be random at home, are the norm here, and I’ve noticed that I have started to get more used to it. For example, a couple of weeks ago I found a cows head and legs/feet in my backyard (in place of the cute puppies I was looking for). Later, Anita, the tienda lady thought it was funny to try and bring the head- tongue hanging out and all into my room! And I thought, wow, that would never happen in Brooklyn!
At the end of every month I will travel to Santa Cruz to do errands, take out money for the month, and see my friends from training and other groups. My first month is almost up, so I will be heading in next week. It feels good to have completed my first stage here!
Add ideas in comments!!
10 interesting things about my new home in San Jose de Chiquitos (good and bad)
1. Along with their religion and church the Jesuits brought the violin to San Jose, and even now the kids are taught to play. I often hear beautiful music coming from the least expected building.
2. The countryside is full of parrots, monkeys, anteaters…
3. The siesta : that’s right 12:30- 3, you cannot do anything but eat and sleep.
4. Moto-taxis are one of the main forms of transportation. You can get anywhere in town for about 20 cents. (Peace Corps worldwide used to give out motos, but then realized they were the most dangerous part of volunteer life, so no moto use for me)
5. There are strong negative attitudes/ racism towards the Collas (people from Coch, La Paz, Altiplano…)
6. The number of meetings a small town can have.
7. Getting chicken to go means: chicken in a bag, rice in a bag, french fries in a bag, ketchup in a bag, mustard in a bag… all in a bag!
8. The general lack of teeth
9. There is a 10 year old boy who works in my house (10, is the legal age.)
I have now been in San Jose for more than 3 weeks. Overall things are going well, and I am adjusting to my new life here. I am constantly surprised by the differences and also the similarities between life in Bolivia and the United States. These past few weeks have been part of my integration process. Peace Corps is very different than many other “aid” organizations because we do not come with money. I am here as a human resource, and do not have set funding for a set project. I am here with ideas, motivation, time and skills to help the community. This however means that my project will be very different from others who can come in and build a new building, or start a new school in a couple of weeks. Peace Corps projects take time. This is often confusing for everyone. People in the community are used to having other volunteers come in with money. This past week, due to a rumor, my sitemate Jenny and I had people coming from all over the city, waiting on our porches for hours, just to ask us about a bathroom project in which we give them money to build bathrooms. As much as I would love to do this, the project does not exist! It’s also confusing for me at times, because I have the training and would be able to do so many wonderful things, starting right now, if only I had money. But, that is not the point of grassroots development, and not the point of Peace Corps.
For now, I am in the integration phase, I am doing my community diagnostic and meeting the people. I am becoming comfortable with my surroundings and the people that live her. Everyday more and more people recognize me and greet me with a “buen dia Ani!” on my morning run. My community diagnostic is my personal study of the town, through which I will be able to determine where I can really help, what the town needs, and how I can create a project that will be sustainable in the town even after I leave.
Besides missing all of you at home, I have been enjoying getting to know San Jose. I was lent a bike by one of the Marist brother, and have been exploring new areas everyday. I have a fun sitemate Jenny and it is really nice to have someone in a similar situation to hang out with! We have been spending time hiking and biking in the beautiful countryside, playing with the kids at the Aldea orphanage, exploring all of the different food tiendas, and of course going to meetings. Things that would be random at home, are the norm here, and I’ve noticed that I have started to get more used to it. For example, a couple of weeks ago I found a cows head and legs/feet in my backyard (in place of the cute puppies I was looking for). Later, Anita, the tienda lady thought it was funny to try and bring the head- tongue hanging out and all into my room! And I thought, wow, that would never happen in Brooklyn!
At the end of every month I will travel to Santa Cruz to do errands, take out money for the month, and see my friends from training and other groups. My first month is almost up, so I will be heading in next week. It feels good to have completed my first stage here!
Thursday, August 16, 2007
Thursday, August 9, 2007
August 8, 2007
I have now been in my new home, San Jose de Chiquitos for one week. What a huge transition! I am now officially on my own. I spent the week getting to know my new pueblo. San Jose has a population of about 12,000 residents, plus more in the outlying rural areas. I live a block away from the main plaza of the town where there is a historic Jesuit church, which is currently under renovation. The plaza is the place for the town’s official business; the Alcaldia and Prefectura (local government) are located in different corners of the Plaza. Also a TV/ radio station, police station and several fried chicken restaurants.
Beyond the plaza, the streets are red dirt and if I walk for five minutes I find myself in a beautiful countryside, which reminds me of a mix between the Arizona desert and the Costa Rican plains.
I have started running in the afternoons and have been happy to find that some people already know my name (which has been changed to “Ani”) this may be because of my surprise interview on TV during my site visit, or simply from the talk of the town. I have spent the most time in the Alcaldia, with the help of my counterparts. On first impression San Jose seems like a town with efficient and educated leaders. They definitely like to have meetings, as I have already learned there are on average 4 meetings a day, all of which the same people attend. These meetings are also all televised on the local TV station, so you can re-watch the meeting once you have returned home.
It’s definitely a challenge starting over in a new place on my own, and for now I’m just taking it day by day… Please keep in touch! I hope to send more news soon
August 6 and 7th, 2007
Bolivian Independence Day
Right now, it’s all about integration, and yesterday I spent the whole day integrating with the Alcaldia and enjoying Bolivian Independence Day. I was lucky enough to be invited to attend the official presentation of the local Military base to the local government, officials and leaders. I, along with my counterparts Senora Daisy and Senora Shirley traveled to a nearby town in which we were seated in a VIP box with the rest of the local leaders. From here we watched as the soldiers presented their musical, physical and fighting talents to us. I really enjoyed their presentations and felt special sitting in a seat of honor. Afterwards there was a cocktail party for all of the members of the Alcaldia and local governments. I thought that this was going to be our lunch, and ate quite a few of their appetizers. Then, was surprised to find that we had 3 more lunches to attend! Needless to say by the end of the day I was very full, and did not want to see anymore barbequed meat, but overall it was an extraordinary experience.
We visited 3 different parts of the military base and were treated with great honor at each one. At the first base they came around with a tray of a soup and main course and we all tried had to try a bite of the meal from the same plate and spoon. I am not really sure what the purpose of that was because soon they brought us our own plates of the same thing that we had just sampled. This party was interesting because we were seated with the young soldiers and I got to talk to them about their experiences. Around age 17 all Bolivian males have to serve in the military for one year. They stay away from their families and follow a strict regimen. For the most part they seemed to be happy there, but it was obvious that it wasn’t something that they had a choice about. They all seemed very happy to have guests visiting them in their quarters. The second party consisted of a band, a bit of an alcoholic drink served from a bucket and coconut shell and another plate of meat including meundo, which I have since found out is cow stomach/intestines. Mmmm. By the 4th party I was totally full and declined a piece of the whole pig that was roasting on the bbq. All in all it was a very interesting day, and also important because I got to spend some time with the local leaders outside of the town meetings.
August 3, 2006
I arrived in San Jose last Wednesday after a long ride on “the death train”. The move in went well and I managed to schlep a huuuge suitcase, 2 boxes, a backpack, shoulder bag, and other miscellaneous items all the way to my new home. Since I have been here I have already seen a lot more of the community than I did on my site visit. I have discovered that there is life outside the main plaza and am now certain that there will be plenty of opportunities to do whatever kind of work I get involved in.
I moved into a temporary room in Dona Daisy’s house. From what I understand they are building a new bathroom for me attached to my room, but I should be able to move in sometime next week. The living situation seems to be very good. The main house is very nice and there are quite a few rented rooms in the backyard/patio area. My new room is in one of the corners of the patio. I am planning to paint the room before I move in next week, so if anyone has any decorating/painting ideas for my little casa in the Chiquitania let me know!
The past few days have been the best because of a current San Jose volunteer Ashley. She also lives with Dona Daisy and it has been incredibly nice to spend time with her. She has explained sooo much to me about the town, the people, the work and Peace Corps in general. I have really enjoyed these past couple days and feel much more at ease about the whole situation. She is taking off to help with training of a new group in Coch, but another volunteer Jenny will be around San Jose with me for the majority of my time here!
Yesterday I went to my first official meeting about Basic Sanitation. It was pretty nerve racking for me because the rest of the people at the meeting were much older than me, professionals, community leaders, not to mention native Spanish speakers. I did end up introducing myself and giving my opinion on the topic of the local water situation. I learned from the meeting that the town has a lack of water. There is running water, but not 24 hours a day, and on occasion the town is without water for longer periods of time. The debate is about where they should get more water, who should plan the system and how it should be paid for. It is a huge issue, which I believe a specialist should be called in from a larger city. But for the time being the town could do several smaller scale projects to help, and demonstrate their motivation.
I have now been in my new home, San Jose de Chiquitos for one week. What a huge transition! I am now officially on my own. I spent the week getting to know my new pueblo. San Jose has a population of about 12,000 residents, plus more in the outlying rural areas. I live a block away from the main plaza of the town where there is a historic Jesuit church, which is currently under renovation. The plaza is the place for the town’s official business; the Alcaldia and Prefectura (local government) are located in different corners of the Plaza. Also a TV/ radio station, police station and several fried chicken restaurants.
Beyond the plaza, the streets are red dirt and if I walk for five minutes I find myself in a beautiful countryside, which reminds me of a mix between the Arizona desert and the Costa Rican plains.
I have started running in the afternoons and have been happy to find that some people already know my name (which has been changed to “Ani”) this may be because of my surprise interview on TV during my site visit, or simply from the talk of the town. I have spent the most time in the Alcaldia, with the help of my counterparts. On first impression San Jose seems like a town with efficient and educated leaders. They definitely like to have meetings, as I have already learned there are on average 4 meetings a day, all of which the same people attend. These meetings are also all televised on the local TV station, so you can re-watch the meeting once you have returned home.
It’s definitely a challenge starting over in a new place on my own, and for now I’m just taking it day by day… Please keep in touch! I hope to send more news soon
August 6 and 7th, 2007
Bolivian Independence Day
Right now, it’s all about integration, and yesterday I spent the whole day integrating with the Alcaldia and enjoying Bolivian Independence Day. I was lucky enough to be invited to attend the official presentation of the local Military base to the local government, officials and leaders. I, along with my counterparts Senora Daisy and Senora Shirley traveled to a nearby town in which we were seated in a VIP box with the rest of the local leaders. From here we watched as the soldiers presented their musical, physical and fighting talents to us. I really enjoyed their presentations and felt special sitting in a seat of honor. Afterwards there was a cocktail party for all of the members of the Alcaldia and local governments. I thought that this was going to be our lunch, and ate quite a few of their appetizers. Then, was surprised to find that we had 3 more lunches to attend! Needless to say by the end of the day I was very full, and did not want to see anymore barbequed meat, but overall it was an extraordinary experience.
We visited 3 different parts of the military base and were treated with great honor at each one. At the first base they came around with a tray of a soup and main course and we all tried had to try a bite of the meal from the same plate and spoon. I am not really sure what the purpose of that was because soon they brought us our own plates of the same thing that we had just sampled. This party was interesting because we were seated with the young soldiers and I got to talk to them about their experiences. Around age 17 all Bolivian males have to serve in the military for one year. They stay away from their families and follow a strict regimen. For the most part they seemed to be happy there, but it was obvious that it wasn’t something that they had a choice about. They all seemed very happy to have guests visiting them in their quarters. The second party consisted of a band, a bit of an alcoholic drink served from a bucket and coconut shell and another plate of meat including meundo, which I have since found out is cow stomach/intestines. Mmmm. By the 4th party I was totally full and declined a piece of the whole pig that was roasting on the bbq. All in all it was a very interesting day, and also important because I got to spend some time with the local leaders outside of the town meetings.
August 3, 2006
I arrived in San Jose last Wednesday after a long ride on “the death train”. The move in went well and I managed to schlep a huuuge suitcase, 2 boxes, a backpack, shoulder bag, and other miscellaneous items all the way to my new home. Since I have been here I have already seen a lot more of the community than I did on my site visit. I have discovered that there is life outside the main plaza and am now certain that there will be plenty of opportunities to do whatever kind of work I get involved in.
I moved into a temporary room in Dona Daisy’s house. From what I understand they are building a new bathroom for me attached to my room, but I should be able to move in sometime next week. The living situation seems to be very good. The main house is very nice and there are quite a few rented rooms in the backyard/patio area. My new room is in one of the corners of the patio. I am planning to paint the room before I move in next week, so if anyone has any decorating/painting ideas for my little casa in the Chiquitania let me know!
The past few days have been the best because of a current San Jose volunteer Ashley. She also lives with Dona Daisy and it has been incredibly nice to spend time with her. She has explained sooo much to me about the town, the people, the work and Peace Corps in general. I have really enjoyed these past couple days and feel much more at ease about the whole situation. She is taking off to help with training of a new group in Coch, but another volunteer Jenny will be around San Jose with me for the majority of my time here!
Yesterday I went to my first official meeting about Basic Sanitation. It was pretty nerve racking for me because the rest of the people at the meeting were much older than me, professionals, community leaders, not to mention native Spanish speakers. I did end up introducing myself and giving my opinion on the topic of the local water situation. I learned from the meeting that the town has a lack of water. There is running water, but not 24 hours a day, and on occasion the town is without water for longer periods of time. The debate is about where they should get more water, who should plan the system and how it should be paid for. It is a huge issue, which I believe a specialist should be called in from a larger city. But for the time being the town could do several smaller scale projects to help, and demonstrate their motivation.
Tuesday, July 31, 2007
Sunday, July 22, 2007
Tuesday, July 3, 2007
SITE INFO:
Drumroll please-----
I am going to SAN JOSE DE CHIQUITOS!
Region: Santa Cruz... close to Brazil
Area: Chiquitania
Work: Many, many possibilities including Gray Water Gardens, Community Development, Public health and hygiene, Ecological Banos, Rainwater Catchment Tanks... and the beat goes on....
Ill be visiting my site next week, so I´ll know a lot more soon!
Sunday, July 1, 2007
A couple photos from Tech week
The Anna´s at an ancient Incan bridge outside of Mizque
Beautiful Valleys near Mizque
Beautiful Valleys near Mizque
Well drilling into the evening in Huari
Mizque!
We started our technical trip about 4 hours away, in the Cochabamba valley, in the city of Mizque. There are 2 Peace Corps volunteers in Mizque and we had a great time getting to know them and working in their community. In Mizque we stayed at a nice hostel and started each morning there cooking breakfast. It was a really big treat, and a lot of fun to be able to eat things like banana pancakes and breakfast burritos. After breakfast we would load into our 4 Landcruizers and drive through the beautiful mountains and valleys of Mizque. Our work site was a boarding school outside of a small town called Tin Tin. Most of the kids from the boarding school were home for vacation but the few that were there helped us with our projects. In this area the primary language spoken is Quechua, and we felt privileged to hear this ancient language. Although Quechua is the preferred language, most also spoke Spanish, so we were able to communicate. We worked at the boarding school for 4 days and built a Ferro cement rainwater catchment tank and a gray water garden system. All of our work was done by hand, without using any kind of machinery, this meant a lot of cement mixing, sand sifting, rebar tying, digging… The rainwater tank was made from cement and molded using chicken wire and wood. The water is caught from the roof of a nearby building and then flows into the closed tank. Without any light, the bacterium in the water dies, and then is ready for use for things such as showering, cooking, etc.
I really enjoyed working on the gray water system. We made a simple plumbing system from the leftover, used water in the kitchen (from cooking, cleaning…) and piped this water underground and outside to an area that we had cleared for a garden. We made holes in the pipes in the garden area and surrounded them with a filtration system of gravel and rocks. The kids at the boarding school were going to follow-up the project by planting vegetables and flowers in the garden.
I really enjoyed working on the gray water system. We made a simple plumbing system from the leftover, used water in the kitchen (from cooking, cleaning…) and piped this water underground and outside to an area that we had cleared for a garden. We made holes in the pipes in the garden area and surrounded them with a filtration system of gravel and rocks. The kids at the boarding school were going to follow-up the project by planting vegetables and flowers in the garden.
10,000 L Rainwater Tank
A bus that runs on train tracks!
Mizque Women
Mizque Man
San Juan
San Juan is the festival of the shortest day of the year, and was the best night of our technical trip. We had our fiesta at the house of the Mizque volunteer, Katie! Armando, one of our technical trainers made an awesome bbq dinner for us, and we enjoyed celebrating the holiday in the typical Bolivian fashion with a huge bonfire and fireworks. The whole town of Mizque was bright and warm from all of the bonfires and there were fireworks everywhere. A funny tradition in the Mizque area was painting their livestock pink!
Lago Poopo
Made it back from the technical trip-- more info soooooon!! This is me on the salty remains of what used to be a much bigger Lago Poopo. I am holding a lucky flamingo feather!! Tomorrow I find out where I will be living for the next 2 years... wish me luck! Hasta Manana!
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